Why I return every year—and why I believe September is its most beautiful season. 

I’ve been visiting the Amalfi Coast for years, and somehow it never feels the same twice.

Perhaps it’s because I’ve been fortunate to experience it through the people who call it home. During the ten years I managed Italian restaurants in New York, our chef was from Positano. Through him, I met local families, restaurant owners, fishermen, hoteliers, and lifelong residents who introduced me to a side of the Amalfi Coast that most visitors never discover.

Since then, I have returned season after season—not simply to revisit favorite places, but to deepen those relationships and continue exploring one of Italy’s most extraordinary regions.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s this:

The Amalfi Coast is not about seeing more. It’s about experiencing it better.

Why Late September?

Without hesitation, it’s my favorite time of year.

The Mediterranean has spent the entire summer warming under the Italian sun, making late September one of the best months for swimming. The days are still beautifully long, beach clubs remain open, yachts continue to anchor along the coastline, and restaurants are still full of life.

Yet something changes.

The pace becomes gentler.

The roads become quieter.

Lunch stretches into the afternoon.

There is no longer the feeling that everyone is trying to experience the coast at exactly the same moment.

Luxury, after all, is often simply having more space.

What’s New on the Amalfi Coast 

One of the reasons I love the Amalfi Coast is that it doesn’t try to reinvent itself every season.

Unlike destinations that rely on constant new openings, the Amalfi Coast evolves quietly. Every year brings a handful of thoughtful additions, while the soul of the destination remains unchanged.

One of this season’s most exciting openings is Le Sirenuse Mare, the new beach club from the iconic Le Sirenuse. It has quickly become one of the most sought-after reservations on the coast, offering the same timeless elegance the hotel has been known for for decades.

At the same time, I’ve noticed another shift—one that I find even more exciting.

Luxury travelers are slowing down.

Rather than rushing between Positano, Amalfi and Ravello in a single day, they’re spending more time at sea, enjoying long lunches, exploring vineyards in Tramonti, visiting family-owned olive estates, wandering through historic lemon terraces, and discovering the quieter corners of Campania.

It’s a style of travel I’ve always believed in.

Experience the Coast by Sea

If I could give only one recommendation, it would be this:

Experience the Amalfi Coast by boat.

The coastline was never meant to be admired from a traffic jam.

Spend the day cruising between Positano, Amalfi, Nerano and Capri. Swim beneath dramatic cliffs, discover hidden coves, circle the Faraglioni, stop at the Blue Grotto, or simply anchor in impossibly clear water with nowhere to be except exactly where you are.

Many of my favorite memories of the Amalfi Coast have happened between destinations rather than in them.

Where I Love to Stay

People often ask me which hotel is the best.

The truth is, there isn’t one.

Each tells a different story.

Borgo Santandrea

My personal favorite.

Opened in 2022, it has already earned its place among the Amalfi Coast’s legendary hotels.

Beyond its stunning Gio Ponti-inspired interiors and spectacular architecture, what truly sets it apart is its people. General Manager Maurizio Orlacchio and his team deliver hospitality with genuine warmth, meticulous attention to detail, and effortless professionalism.

What I particularly love:

• The only hotel on the Amalfi Coast with its own private beach.

• A private dock, making departures by boat effortless.

• Spacious terraces overlooking the Mediterranean.

• A peaceful location away from Positano’s crowds, yet perfectly positioned for exploring the coast.

• Outstanding service from one of Italy’s finest hotel teams.

It is one of the few hotels anywhere in the world that I recommend without hesitation.

Le Sirenuse

An icon.

Elegant, timeless, and still one of the most desirable addresses in Positano.

I particularly love:

• La Sponda, one of Italy’s most romantic restaurants illuminated by hundreds of candles every evening.

• Beautiful terraces overlooking Positano.

• The hotel’s effortless atmosphere that has remained unchanged for decades.

Il San Pietro

Built directly into the cliffs, it feels wonderfully secluded even during the busiest summer months.

Highlights include:

• Michelin-starred Zass Restaurant.

• Tennis court overlooking the sea.

• Magical atmosphere on the terrace for cocktails before the dinner. A must even if you are not staying there.

Villa TreVille

Perhaps the most intimate luxury hotel on the Amalfi Coast.

Originally the private residence of film director Franco Zeffirelli, it still feels more like staying at an extraordinary private home than a hotel.

Expect:

• Exceptional privacy.

• Beautiful gardens.

• A private dock.

• Some of the most spectacular views in Positano.

Casa Angelina

A completely different interpretation of the Amalfi Coast.

Minimalist, contemporary and serene.

Perfect for guests who appreciate modern luxury, art, and understated elegance.

Caruso, Ravello

If you’re extending your stay, Ravello deserves two or three nights of its own.

Perched high above the coastline, it offers an entirely different atmosphere—peaceful, elegant and wonderfully removed from the crowds below.

Its legendary infinity pool alone is worth the visit.

Long Lunches Are Part of the Experience

One mistake I see visitors make is trying to fit too much into each day.

The Amalfi Coast isn’t a destination to rush through.

Lunch might last three hours.

And that’s exactly how it should be.

My Favorite Lunch Restaurants

• Lo Scoglio — Nerano

• Maria Grazia — Nerano

• La Tonnarella — Conca dei Marini

• Lido Azzurro — Amalfi

• Donna Stella — Amalfi

• Da Gemma — Amalfi

• Chez Black — Positano

• Da Vincenzo — Praiano

• Da Lorenzo — Scala

My Favorite Dinner Restaurants

• La Caravella — Amalfi

• Quattro Passi — Nerano

• Max — Praiano

• La Sponda — Le Sirenuse

• Zass — Il San Pietro

• Il Refettorio — Monastero Santa Rosa

• Terrazza Duomo — Amalfi

Some are Michelin-starred.

Others are simple family-run institutions that have welcomed generations of locals.

Both deserve a place on every Amalfi itinerary.

Experiences Not to Miss

• Private boat day around Capri, the Faraglioni, Li Galli and hidden swimming coves.

• Lunch by boat in Nerano.

• Wine tasting in Tramonti.

• Olive oil tasting at a family-owned estate.

• Lemon grove tours with homemade lemonade, limoncello, and local desserts.

• Pasta, pizza, or mozzarella-making classes.

• Scenic hike along the Path of the Gods.

• Private guided tour of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

• Ceramic workshops in Vietri sul Mare.

• Helicopter tour over the Amalfi Coast and Capri.

• Sunset aperitivo cruise.

• Private Riva boat charter for the day.

The newest trend on the Amalfi Coast isn’t another glamorous opening.

It’s returning to authenticity.

Travelers are seeking meaningful experiences, local traditions, and moments that connect them to the destination rather than simply passing through it.

Don’t Skip Nerano

If there’s one place I encourage every client to visit, it’s Nerano.

Arrive by private boat.

Order Spaghetti alla Nerano where the dish was born.

Spend the afternoon swimming in the bay before heading back as the sun begins to set.

Simple.

Unpretentious.

Perfect.

One Last Thought

Every summer brings new restaurants, new beach clubs, and a handful of exciting openings.

But the Amalfi Coast has never been about what’s new.

It’s about how it makes you feel.

About conversations that last longer than expected.

About discovering a tiny family-run restaurant hidden beneath lemon trees after dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant the night before.

About spending an entire afternoon on a boat with no agenda other than finding the next beautiful cove.

Late September is when all of those moments seem to come together.

And that’s exactly why I keep coming back.

—

Olga Rykova

Founder, Luxium